Bring the boat in straight, under idle power, at "walking distance" - as she glides on I raise the leg and turn it off and she will slide 12"-24" short of the yoke softly skidding into place. On calm to slightly windy conditions (normal) I back it in until my rear load guides are just at water level. I have watched many other methods tried, resisted the urge to record the anticsĪgreed, but bunk height, trailers vary and ramp angles change a bit - but when you find the sweet spot on yours it's easy.
#Loading a wood runabout onto bunk trailer full#
Resist oversteering, coast until the boat comes to rest on the bunks and then slight throttle until the boat has centered itself and you are almost at the winch, kill engine, trim full up and pull out to pull drain plug. When approaching the trailer, try to focus on a point far forward on land and in line with the trailer centerline. I was taught a long time ago to back the trailer in so that about 1" of bunk is sticking out of the water. What ever happened to people using their brains and figuring out what the sweet spot is on your bunks (and how deep they should be when loading) so you can glide on "at walking speed" and have the boat stop just short of the yoke? That's how people wreck stuff, including washing out the gravel and sediment at the launch creating holes, destroying their bunks and it's tough on your boat and can be dangerous and unpredictable. I also don't see the need to "power load" my boat when putting it on the trailer, that makes no sense. I did not go to UHMV because I don't want my boat to "slide off" or "slide around". I am taking boats here - not yachts or pontoons. The outdoor carpet is easily stapled and/or glued, and attaching the bunks to the brackets with a stainless or galvanized hardware is easy.
It will last years, no worries about pressure treating chemicals and what they do to your hull, and it's off the shelf at home depot. Agreed, that standard SPF 2圆 would be ideal for the bunks.
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